If you want to try walking some of the Cornish cliff path what better place to base yourself than in a B&B in Padstow? A splendid though quite arduous walk would be from Padstow to Port Isaac. This would take the average walker about 5 ½ hours in all. I believe that 3 miles an hour is too much to expect, especially on the coast path, where from walking along the tops you suddenly descend 300 feet to the shore line, and then up a steep climb back to the cliff top.
Stout walking boots are essential for ankle support and waterproofing. A couple of walking poles will help (you can pick up perfectly adequate ones in Padstow). These not only help take the weight off the knees, a vital factor especially for those of us who are over 60, but also help with balance when negotiating steep and sometimes tricky narrow paths. A small pack to carry light weight waterproofs, water, etc and you are ready!
Starting from your B&B in Padstow, preferably somewhere near the harbour, catch the ferry to Rock, a ten minute ride, and then pick up the coast path to your left as you land. You pass by the famous St Enodoc golf course, and taking the inland route, a little church that was once buried in the sand. A local vicar took years to dig it out, and now the late John Betjeman, poet Laureate, is buried in the church yard.
Go past Polzeath and up to Pentire Point, where you get the finest views on all the coast path. You can look back to Polzeath beach, on to the rooftops of Padstow and out to sea Stepper Point, Harlyn Bay and Trevose Lighthouse. Walk on to the Rumps, worth a slight detour off the path, Lundy Hole, Ephaven and then Port Quinn. Here you will see the remains of cottages, deserted it is said when all the men of the village went to sea and perished in a great storm.
Finally after nearly nine miles, hard going especially towards the end, you reach Port Isaac. You will find several small restaurants, a good pub overlooking the harbour, and Squeezy Belly Ally - a very narrow street but no problem after such a walk. Catch a bus back to your B&B in Padstow, but check times before setting off as the buses are not too frequent. You could, of course, start with a bus trip and reverse the whole walk.
Contact Peter & Jane Cullinan // Tel: +44 (0)1841 532 383 // South Quay, Padstow, Cornwall. PL28 8BY (UK) // e-mail: thepadstowcullinans@gmail.com